La race Aubrac, l’autre combat pour l’authenticité

Au côté du couteau laguiole, la vache Aubrac fait l’objet d’une mobilisation sans faille pour le maintien de son existence. Sur le plateau, de l’éleveur au boucher, des passionnés perpétuent une tradition gourmande reconnue loin de frontières de l’Aveyron.

La manufacture Forge de Laguiole est posée sur le plateau de l’Aubrac, là où le vert et bleu se mêlent artistiquement à d’autres tâches colorées, marron, celles des troupeaux de vaches Aubrac qui arpentent les pâturages de mai à octobre, à 1.300 mètres d’altitude. Une vidéo récemment diffusée sur France 5 revient sur le bœuf Aubrac, cet autre ambassadeur de l’Aveyron, invitant le téléspectateur de rencontrer Thibaut Dijols, l’un des 500 éleveurs qui vivent de cette race, avec 65 mères.

Traçabilité et qualité de la viande

La transformation de la viande s’effectue notamment chez le boucher Lucien Conquet, figure incontournable de Laguiole et ardent défenseur du terroir et notamment du label rouge pour le bœuf fermier obtenu en 1996 grâce à l’action de l’association race Aubrac (la génisse a elle obtenu l’IGP fleur d’Aubrac en 2010). La traçabilité du produit, « où l’on sait quel éleveur est derrière chaque morceau de viande », est très importante pour rassurer le consommateur, insiste Lucien Conquet. Ici on laisse le temps à la viande de se mâturer, avant de la déguster dans les restaurants de Laguiole et alentour, lesquels ne désemplissent pas les jours de foire.

Couteau laguiole et vache Aubrac liés par le combat de l'authenticité.

Couteau laguiole et vache Aubrac liés par le combat de l’authenticité.

Lucien a su au cours de années diversifier ses canaux de distribution et permet même d’acheter de la viande Aubrac en ligne. Les amateurs pourront alors, à travers l’Hexagone, déguster une bonne bavette d’aloyau made in Aveyron, armés de leur couteau pliant laguiole. Au-delà de Laguiole, on retrouve notamment la viande du plateau dans les restaurants parisiens parmi lesquels l’incontournable maison de l’Aubrac, où Christian Valette nous avait dévoilé les meilleurs conseils pour bien préparer, cuire et découper la viande d’Aubrac.

Cahier des charges strict, indication géographique… A l’instar du couteau laguiole, la vache Aubrac est devenue un combat pour la qualité et la tradition, combat en passe d’être remporté.

 

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